11 MARCH WITNESSED THE OPENING OF THE 32ND SEASON OF MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA
Maestro of the Russian fashion SLAVA ZAITSEV presented a parade of students from his Fashion Laboratory. The first to hit the catwalk was designer Nika Shabashova with Fall-Winter collection 2016/2017 Takamori. Complex cuts of womenswear went along with the ascetic design of the male suit tailored akin to the apparel of Buddhist monks. Every garment is filled with the philosophical sense – designer was inspired by the primary elements: water, wood, fire, earth and metal. In Endeavour collection from designer BARBARA PLAVINSKY impudence goes hand in hand with romantics. Designer interprets the fantasies on adventures of Captain Cook in accessories made in the shape of bones and skulls along with the wide ethnic fringe on men’s suits. GALINA BIRYUKOVA showcased kids’ collection Flash. Designer primarily employed the white colour highlighting unlimited possibilities and varieties. Collection from Alina Podgurskaya came in an array of angles and mysterious triangles in every curve of the shape. The colour range included cold blue, calm dark-grey and coffee. Collection called Music on the Black Ash from designer MAYER YULIA featured garments of the future where floating fabrics are combined with the frames of solid materials. Designer plays with the silhouettes turning them into the subject matter of arts and experiments. IRINA KRYUCHKOVA took over maestro’s love for Russian patterns and folk themes. Contemporary ‘bony lass’ prefers black and white, puff skirts, chiffon blouses and delicate kokoshniks that strongly remind of the tiaras. Another bright impression is evening gowns from LENA BURDUZHA. She pays homage to the classics – the iconic combination of black and gold/black and silver. Raw edges of the shaping fabrics add some contemporary features to the garments.
Designer of IVANOVA brand grasped inspiration for her new collection Falling into Sky from the peaceful Caucasus mountain peaks. Julia Ivanova studies the nature of the female principle, levity of soft clouds that balance sharpness and gravity of mountain peaks. Designer selects sustainable colours that continue the theme of highlands: dark-blue and soft dark-green are responsible for canons and vegetable blanket, ochroid and garnish red for rocks, pastel pink and ivory for dawn’s clouds. Soft jersey suits, loose robe coats with large pockets – the abundance of soft curves here serves only one purpose – raise the female character of the collection over the urban mundane life and grant her confidence and peace.
The next on the runway were designers of Kazakhstan Fashion Week. ALEX CHZHEN designed chess-like collection sustained in black and white shades. Small Inclusions of vertical copper lines glinted black dresses from inside. Garments from SAMIDEL collection seem to be weaved of sea foam, cut out of paper. The highlight of the collection is the formal white floor-length dress complemented by azure-blue gorgeous carved cloak. Studio K employed the mix of Bordeaux-red and sandy beige thus combining chic and relaxed attitude – the collection is for women who know good fashion. Collection from TAMARA LAMANUKAEVA featured subdued hues of grey and beige: coventry, wet stone, steel and the colour of morning coffee. Among finishing is ruffle, ribbons and flounce. Brand CHAUDE by KHAFIZ KHAN featured the luxurious collection of evening gowns. Restrained sexuality is hidden in the floor-length dresses with open back, however, collection featured more radical items as well – netty dress did not conceal the shapes of the model. Other interesting pieces of the collection are the dress with complex texture, as if silk cocooning the body, bridal dress decorated by tempting pearls.
KSENIASERAYA applies programmed knitting machines, experiments with knitting density and perforation effects. Soft fabric of intricate interweaving, natural hues of red and white underline the delicacy and spontaneity. Strap dresses seem light as air, while men’s suits are perfectly comfortable. Seamless tailoring grants the ideal fit. Trendy embellishment, horizontal, vertical and convergent stripes, in collection from Ksenia Seraya they are the rotation of air and solid knitted fabric.
Designer Yury Pitenin, Saint-Tokyo brand, featured the collection where East aesthetics meet with the European. This languid neo-noire coloured by the tapestry flowers is scattered over the outwear, dresses and skirts. Cosy wool goes along with sequin finishing in pink gold: designer plays with the textures, asymmetric cuts and geometry of the lines.
In the new season YASYA MINOCHKINA steps aside from the classic femininity and showcases bold sexual but at the same time intelligent garments. Collection inspired by Spain and 1970’s featured semi-transparent jumpsuits, jacquard tops with banded collar, A-shaped mini skirts and dresses with transparent shoulder-insets. Ruffle finishing that clearly refers to flamenco costumes and partial colour-blocking should also be pointed out.
Rather viable casual collection was demonstrated by BEGGON brand styled by Alexander Rogov. Dynamics of the big city can be traced in the silhouettes and free cuts. The colour range is rather rich and for any taste: from brick-red to delicate-pink, from black to restrained scarlet.
During the day, guests of the Fashion Week could attend the Virtual Reality workshop from Craig Arend. With the help of special glasses and application from YouVisit VR anyone could experience the world of the fashion show in VR, see the catwalk as if from the front row.